Our first goal in Frankfurt was to acquire international calling cards to inform our parents that we would not in fact be on our scheduled flights. In the case of my family this is particularly important, since the last time I was ten minutes late for something, my mother threatened to start World War III looking for me. Luckily, there were cheap phonecards readily available for purchase inside the Frankfurt airport, so we purchased one and went on our way into the city for some good old-fashioned adventure time.
We took the Deutsche Bahn into downtown, and when we got off the train and exited the station, we quickly realized that this was an area of downtown reserved for the more adventurous pleasure seekers in the city. The street had a seemingly endless supply of specialty stripclubs and sex stores, so we both made a mental note to avoid this area should we be forced to return after sundown. Not really out of fear, but more out of consideration for our own sanity. At the end of this street we encountered a large open square, in the center of which stood a 30-foot tall neon blue and yellow Euro symbol; a sign whose function was assumed by us to act as some sort of propaganda to get Germans to buy into the new Euro system following the abolition of their history-laden and beloved Deutsche Mark. I found the "The Euro: It's OUR Money" campaign to be rather ironic, since it isn't really anyobdy's money, and even if it was, it sure as heel isn't Germany's. Belgium maybe. Or Switzerland.
Turning right from the square we hit the banks of the Maim river (Frankfurt's full name is "Frankfurt am Maim") which cuts through the center of the city. By this time it was moderately pleasant and sunny (a rarity on our trip), so we decided to stroll across the river to check out one of the pointy churches on the other side. We crossed a large bridge, complete with a sign in Greek letters (confusing to me as well) and ended up at the footsteps of a church that looked a lot more interesting from half a mile away. We peeked inside, saw nothing of any more interest than my normal suburban Chicago parish, and decided to sit on the church steps and consume the Brie cheese sandwiches we had so intelligently constructed earlier in the day. While we sat eating our lunch, we took an increasing interest in the sights and sounds of the very large flea market going on just to the south of the church. After finishing the sandwiches, we walked down toward the market (since I am always up for a bargain, especially on pointless old German things) and found, after half an hour of searching, decidedly nothing of interest. I was quickly growing disappointed by Frankfurt's visual promise of fun-itude only to take it away a few seconds later, so we walked back to the other side of the river to see if it would provide us with a little more luck.
This was a good move as it turned out. The other side of the river provided us with, first and foremost, a small telephone booth with which to inform our families of our current situation. I can't remember exaclty what I said, but I think I ended up blaming the Deutsche Bahn more than my apprently expert sleeping abilities. Shewara called her family too, with much the same result. After the phone calls we headed over to my favorite attraction of the day, which Shewara would creatively name "The Man Church." The fact that it was called a church to begin with was interesting, since from what we could tell no religious services were actually ever held there. The circular building's first floor exhibited a large mural, presumably illustrating the history of Germany, complete with many nude women and lude old men with glasses and whatnot. The upstairs made even less sense: a large circular room decorated with - nothing. Blank silver walls, 100 identical black seats, and a solitary podium standing watch over the space much like a dictator inspecting his troops. The only color in the room were the long banners lining the walls, each one representing a different German state. We really didn't know what to make of this place. Normally you can't talk in a church, but at the same time this didn't really seem to be a sacred space. It was almost anti-sacred. I mean, it really was the church of THE MAN. We left very quickly since there literally was nothing to see. (There was really no signs to explain the place either.)
After the Man Church we headed back to the main square, where we tried to enter to Romer (City Hall), but were quickly turned away. The pretzel-shaped golden doorknobs were what initially attracted us to the building, but the evil people behind the doors they opened weren't nearly as visually appealing. So whatever. Turned away from the Romer, we went over to the Modern Art Museum. It was far too expensive to go in (like 10 Euros or something) but luckily the gift shop was free admission. I was shocked to see inside a
book dedicated specifically to the art of one of my favorite central African peoples, the
Chokwe (they make really awesome wood masks and figures). I decided to purchase it later, after we had returned from the rest of our day.
We remembered that while we had been back by the flea market we had noticed a long string of little museums just a few blocks north of where we were. We decided to head back over that way, to investigate what they might have to offer. The Technology Museum intrigued us, but turned out to be rather expensive and rather full of scores of little kids ready to smack me with sticks. I didn't feel like dealing with any of that, so we continued to explore down the street. We passed the Anthropology and Ethnology Museum (basically for the artifacts of "primitive" peoples), which normally would interest me, but I felt I had seen enough of these and they were starting to all be the same. Next we came to the Film Museum, which I know is one of Shewara's favorite topics, so we went inside to check it out. As luck would have it, they were staging a large exhibition of
Greta Garbo's personal portraits. Garbo is one of Shewara's all-time favorite actresses, a Swedish-born star who subverted all the gender roles of her day before people had even come up with the concept of gender roles. We're big fans. The exhibition was very well presented, complete with original magazines and newspapers, tons of portraits (arranged chronologically), as well as a good selection of film clips. Even better, all of the descriptions of the bojects were in English as well as German. I felt very informed after leaving the exhibit, which generally means that I liked it. The only bad exhibits are uninformative ones, and the more informative ones tend to be prettier as well. These people did a good job. We left the museum feeling rather satisifed, and walked out into the suddenly cold and sleety Frankfurt afternoon. Cold and tired, we quickly went back to buy my Chokwe book, and wandered around in search of food.
We ended up stopping in to Cafe Metropol, a rather large and upscale cafe with a very diverse clientele. We were seated over in a corner at a small table for two, just how we liked it, and chatted for an hour or two while sipping our hot chocolate and chai tea, pausing every few minutes to play with the wax melting off of the candle at our table. It was very relaxing and invigorating, so by the time we left we were ready to takcle the long walk back to the train station. Our walk back, though full of the sketchy characters that seem to populate the nightlife of most major urban areas, was uneventful. The only note of interest was our discovery of the State of North Carolina's European Office, located directly across from the aforementioned neon Euro sign. Most of my readers know of my great dislike for North Carolina, so I can only assume that the pluralty of evils that exist in Germany today have something to do with this particular establishment. Did Europe have as many problems before North Carolina existed? Both World Wars occurred
after NC's founding. Coincidence? I think not.
In any event, we made it back to the train station in plenty of time, and arrived at the airport just before 10:00 PM local time. It would still be another twleve hours until our flight, and we would be forced to spend it in the terminal with nothing to do.
Next time: The Conclusion (or, how my digital camera became an imminent threat to national security).